1. Trek To El Garganta Del Diablo (The Devil's Throat)
This 7km trek will take you out into the wilderness of northern Argentina, through dry desert slopes and fields of giant cacti.
As you climb higher into the mountains, the cliffs will close in on you until you are eventually trekking through a tiny canyon with a single walkway – this is the ‘Devils Throat’. Once you exit, you can keep going until you reach the end of the canyon and a final waterfall.
We visited at the start of February, which is the summer in Argentina. The weather was beautiful, and once we reached the final waterfall, there were lots of Argentinians (clearly on holidays) relaxing in the shade, dipping into the river and all drinking their beloved mate.
Our hostel gave us a printed map, but it’s easy to find. If you star the waterfall in google maps and follow the directions. There’s only a single path so you won’t get lost.
Travelling through the north-west is one of the highlights of a trip to Argentina. But there’s so much more to see in this incredible country. To see how to combine the north-west into a one-month itinerary that also covers the entire country, head to the post below:
2. Visit The Pre-Inca Ruins Of Pucara Del Tilcara
Pucara Del Tilcara is a historical site where you can explore pre-Inca fortification ruins built in the 12th century.
There’s an archaeological museum on-site with information about the ancient Andean tribes in the region, as well as ceramics, skeletons and other artefacts found there on display. Just a warning that all the signs will be in Spanish.
A short detour from the ruins and museum is the Jardin Botanica de Altura – a small botanical garden with several species of giant cacti in.
The garden, museum and ruins pair well with a trip to Garganta as they are both near each other. The trail to the waterfall begins a short walk away from the ruins.
If you want to combine a trip to Chile alongside Argentina, then there are several ways to do this with a simple border crossing. The three itineraries in the post below can help you cross the borders a 3 different points in Argentina to see Chile:
3. Visit Argentina's Rainbow Mountain
We had no idea Argentina had a secret rainbow mountain hiding away in the northeast.
We only found out about it when we started researching the area and immediately wanted to visit it to compare it to Peru’s.
El Hornocal or the 14 Coloured Mountain, is just outside the town of Humahuaca, a 30-minute bus journey from Tilcara. It’s a great little day trip to take. You can either organise a tour or transport from Tilcara or travel to Humahuaca yourself and sort it out there.
Everything you need to know is here in our guide:
At 4,200m it’s high, but you don’t need to trek to it as a road goes all the way to the top. Nice and easy. And we think it’s definitely worth a visit. Not only is it cheap and easy, but the colours and view are just as good, if not better, than Peru’s famous Rainbow Mountain.
Booking on to a tour will save you having to organise your own in Humahuaca. Here are some online options to give you an idea:
- Viator – Half-Day Tour From Tilcara
The tours we found online range from an eye-watering $40-$75 for a half-day tour. When you consider the total price if done on your own would be around 800 pesos (£10 / $13), excluding food and water, that’s a good slice of profit for the tour company.
It’s much cheaper to visit on your own and more of an adventure, in our opinion.
For more information on the town of Humahuaca:
4. Visit Argentina's Second Rainbow Mountain - The Hill Of 7 Colours
Another short journey away in the opposite direction from Humahuaca is Argentina’s second Rainbow Mountain – the Hill of 7 Colours.
Whilst it doesn’t sound as impressive as the 14-coloured mountain, Humahuaca named theirs that to try and out-do Purmamarca so don’t be fooled. The hill is just as colourful and impressive, and you don’t need to take a tour to see this one, you can see it from anywhere in town.
We would recommend seeing El Hornocal over this one if you are short on time however. Although the best thing to do is visit all three of these towns separately so you can see it all.
5. Try The Traditional Cuisine Of The Region
Tilcara has an impressive restaurant scene considering its small size.
And because the north of Argentina still has strong ties to the indigenous cultures of the region, you will be able to find some new and exciting takes on popular dishes such as locro (a rich, meaty stew), quinoa and llama meat.
El Nuevo Progreso is the go-to in town for delicious local cuisine, or El Patio is another excellent second option.
For live folk music – La Pena de Carlitos.
If you are looking for an inexpensive but authentic eat, then try lunch at Mercado Municipal de Tilcara. The market is great for picking up empanadas, chicken skewers, and smaller versions of lorco or llama meat for half the price of a restaurant.
6. Enjoy Steak And Wine Without Breaking The Bank
The best thing about visiting this region of Argentina is that prices are closer to those you find in Bolivia rather than the prices in Buenos Aires.
This means you can enjoy steak and wine for half the price and not feel guilty about it. We had a huge steak and shared a bottle of wine at Los Puestos Restaurante and barely blinked when the bill came out. If you are looking to treat yourself, then Tilcara and the north of Argentina are the places to do it.
For more great towns to visit in the north of Argentina, why not check out Cafayate. Cafayate is the wine producing region of the north and perfect for wine lovers looking to tour vineyards and go on tastings.
For everything you need to know about Cafayate, head to the post below:
7. Explore The Town, Music Venues And Bars
Having a wander of Plaza Alvarez Prado is the early evening is a great way to spend a couple of hours.
There will be artisan stalls selling indigenous crafts and wears, and street musicians giving live performances.
After a wander, head to one of the bars sit outside to people watch on the square. Then once the sun goes down, you can go inside or to one of the many other bars to enjoy some live music. The Argentinians like to start their nights out late, so you’ve been warned, you may up be up all night.
Arumi is a great place to check out for live music.
8. Wine Tasting At Bodega Fernanda Dupont
If you are after more wine, then a visit to a vineyard is a must. Bodega Fernanda Dupont is a short drive outside of Tilcara.
The Winery is open for guided tours from Monday to Saturday between 9 AM to 6 PM. They ask that you call ahead in summer to check the river’s status as it can sometimes flood, stopping cars getting there.
9. Take A Day Tour
There’s always the option to take a paid tour out of the town if the Rainbow Mountains don’t interest you.
Here’s two we found:
- Viator – Half-day Mountain Biking In Tilcara
- Get Your Guide – North Argentina’s Salt Flats (Salinas Grandes)
10. Road Trip Along Route 9
Route 9 is an incredibly scenic road that’s perfect for extended road trips via car or bike.
The short distances between the towns of Humahuaca, Tilcara and Purmamarca, including all the incredible landscapes and scenery in the region, means having a car is a fantastic way to explore this part of Argentina.
We rented a car in Salta and journeyed along the south, but there’s no reason why you can’t go north. If you are coming from Salta or Jujuy, then these are two of the biggest cities in the region, and you will be able to rent a car here.
We used Hertz, and the process was simple and efficient.
To see how Tilcara and Route 9 fit into a wider north Argentina itinerary, check out our post below:
TILCARA TOWN GUIDE
How Many Days Do You Need In Tilcara?
Two days is the perfect amount of time to spend in Tilcara.
The town is small and can easily be seen in the morning. The best thing to do in Tilcara is just take it easy, take in the laid-back vibe of the place and enjoy some local wines and cuisine.
Tilcara 2-Day Itinerary
Day 1
- Wander the town
- Lunch at Mercado Municipal de Tilcara
- Dinner at El Nuevo Progesso
- Live music at La Pena de Carlitos
Day 2
- Jardin Botanica de Altura
- Purcara de Tilcara Ruins / Archeological Musuem
- El Garganta Del Diablos Trek
Exploring off the beaten track in the northwest is one of 10 great reasons why I think you should visit Argentina. For the other 9, head to the post below:
The Best Places To Eat In Tilcara
We only spent two days in town so didn’t get a chance to try all these fantastic places, but here’s what we came across from research and recommendations from our hostel:
- Khuska
- La Picadita
- El Nuevo Progreso
- La Pena de Carlitos
- Arumi
- Los Puestos Restaurante
How To Get To Tilcara
Route 9 is one long road that runs from the north down to the city of Salta. Navigating this part of the country is super easy and laidback, just hopping on cheap, local buses whenever you want to move to the next town.
Tilcara’s bus station can be found on the corner of Av. Belgrano and Av. Exodo. Ask your hostel for directions if you can’t find it on google maps.
How To Get To Tilcara From Humahuaca
Tilcara is only 40 minutes by bus to Humahuaca and the tickets costs around 140 ARS (£1.80/$2.40).
Buses are relatively frequent between the two towns. The bus station is in the middle of town, next to Plaza San Martin on Av. Belgrado. There are multiple bus companies, so we just picked the one with the next earliest time.
When arriving at Tilcara, the bus will drop you off at the YPF garage across the bridge from the town. You will need to talk from there.
How To Get To Tilcara From Jujuy/Salta
Whilst we did this journey in the opposite direction, going south to Salta, it’s relatively simple to navigate. The buses are easy to organise and run frequently. We didn’t book anything online and just turned up on the day at the bus station.
If you are coming from Salta to Tilcara, you may have to change buses in Jujuy. The Jujuy bus station is massive, and we found a bus company within minutes to take us.
If you want to do some forward planning, then Bus Bud is always helpful.
They will have buses from the big cities such as Salta and Jujuy, but you won’t be able to find any of the buses between the small towns on route 9 as these are all local companies.
If you are heading to Salta after seeing the smaller towns of the north-west, then be sure to check out our guide:
Where To Stay In Tilcara
Hostel Waira – Overlooking the valley of Humahuaca in Tilcara, Hostel Waira offers budget accommodation, just 200 yards from the Plaza Central. Every morning, local and international breakfast is served. Waira Hostel organises guided hiking tours to the Humauca Creek and the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
- Bed in a 6-bed dorm – £9
- Double room for two – £17
Booking / Hostel World / Website
Tilcara Mistica Hostel – Only 200 yards from Tilcara’s city centre, Tilcara Mistica Hostel offers rooms with free Wi-Fi. It features a garden with hammocks, a shared kitchen, BBQ facilities and a bar/restaurant attached as well. Free Breakfast with regional ingredients is served daily.
- Bed in 4 Bed Dorm – £7
- Double or twin with shared bathroom – £19
Booking / Hostel World / Website
Tierra Andina Hostel – Tierra Andina Hostel has a bar, shared lounge, garden, and free WiFi. The accommodation features a 24-hour front desk, a shared kitchen and currency exchange for guests. Free continental breakfast included.
- Bed in 6 bed mixed dorm – £4
- Deluxe double room – £10
All prices as of November 2020 as advertised on Booking.com
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