Tilcara, North Argentina

Best Things To Do In Tilcara: North Argentina’s Hidden Gem

Argentina’s north-east has more in common with its neighbour Bolivia than the big European style cities of Salta and Buenos Aires. Which means it’s perfect for travellers who are looking to travel on a budget and stay off the beaten track. Tilcara is one of three popular towns along Route 9 and is well worth your time. Everything you need to know is here in our list of best things to do and Tilcara town guide.

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The 10 Best Things To Do In Tilcara

1. Trek To El Garganta Del Diablo (The Devil's Throat)

Hiking to this waterfall is the best thing to do in Tilcara.

 

This 7km trek will take you out into the wilderness of northern Argentina, through dry desert slopes and fields of giant cacti.

 

As you climb higher into the mountains, the cliffs will close in on you until you are eventually trekking through a tiny canyon with a single walkway – this is the ‘Devils Throat’.

 

Once you exit, you can keep going until you reach the end of the canyon and a find a waterfall.

 

I visited at the start of February, which is the summer in Argentina.

 

The weather was beautiful, and once I reached the waterfall, there were lots of Argentinians (clearly on holidays) relaxing in the shade, dipping into the river and all drinking their beloved mate.

 

It was a lovely day out and my number one recommendation for something to do if your in Tilcara.

Travelling through the north-west is one of the highlights of a trip to Argentina. But there’s so much more to see in this incredible country. To see how to combine the north-west into a one-month itinerary that also covers the entire country, head to the post below:

 

 

The beautiful countryside of Tilcara (North Argentina)

2. Visit The Pre-Inca Ruins Of Pucara Del Tilcara

Pucara Del Tilcara is a historical site where you can explore pre-Inca fortification ruins built in the 12th century.

 

There’s an archaeological museum on-site with information about the ancient Andean tribes in the region, as well as ceramics, skeletons and other artifacts found there on display. Just a warning that all the signs will be in Spanish.

 

A short detour from the ruins and museum is the Jardin Botanica de Altura – a small botanical garden with several species of giant cacti in.

 

The garden, museum and ruins pair well with a trip to Garganta as they are both near each other.

So combine both into a full day out!

If you want to combine a trip to Chile alongside Argentina, then there are several ways to do this with a simple border crossing. The three itineraries in the post below can help you cross the borders a 3 different points in Argentina to see Chile:

 

 

Pucara Del Tilcara, North Argentina

3. Visit Argentina's Rainbow Mountain

Argentina has a secret rainbow mountain hiding away in the northeast and I personally think it’s more impressive than the one in Peru!

 

El Hornocal or the 14 Coloured Mountain, is just outside the town of Humahuaca, a 30-minute bus journey from Tilcara.

 

At 4,200m it’s high, but you don’t need to trek to it as a road goes all the way to the top.

 

It’s a great little day trip to take and you can be back in Tilcara in the evening, or spend the night in Humahuaca if you want to. 

Everything you need to know is here in our guide:

 

 

Joe and a friend from 'Shall We Go Home Travel' at El Hornocal in Humahuaca (Argentina)

4. Visit Argentina's Second Rainbow Mountain - The Hill Of 7 Colours

Another short journey away in the opposite direction from Humahuaca is Argentina’s second Rainbow Mountain – the Hill of 7 Colours.

 

Whilst it doesn’t sound as impressive as the 14-coloured mountain, apprerently Humahuaca named theirs that to try and out-do Purmamarca so don’t be fooled.

 

The hill is just as colourful and impressive, and you don’t need to take a tour to see this one, you can see it from anywhere in town.

 

There are multiple viewpoints and some short trails around the town that provide great views. 

I would recommend seeing El Hornocal over this one if you are short on time. Although the best thing to do is visit all three of these towns separately so you can see it all.

 

See a comparison of the two here:

 

 

5. Try The Traditional Cuisine Of The Region

Tilcara has an impressive restaurant scene considering its small size.

 

And because the north of Argentina still has strong ties to the indigenous cultures of the region, you will be able to find some new and exciting takes on popular dishes.

 

I recommend trying locro (a rich, meaty stew), quinoa and llama meat whilst your here.

 

Here are my top spots in town to eat at:

 

  • El Nuevo Progreso is the go-to in town for delicious local cuisine
  • El Patio is another excellent second option.
  • For live folk music – La Pena de Carlitos.
  • If you are looking for an inexpensive but authentic eat, then try lunch at Mercado Municipal de Tilcara. The market is great for picking up empanadas, chicken skewers, and smaller versions of lorco or llama meat for half the price of a restaurant.
Asado (barbeque) in Argentina

6. Enjoy Steak And Wine Without Breaking The Bank

The best thing about visiting this region of Argentina is that prices are closer to those you find in Bolivia rather than the prices in Buenos Aires.

 

This means you can enjoy steak and wine for half the price and not feel guilty about it.

 

I had a huge steak and shared a bottle of wine at Los Puestos Restaurante and barely blinked when the bill came out.

 

If you are looking to treat yourself, then Tilcara and the north of Argentina are the places to do it.

Or you could check out this cooking experience:

For more great towns to visit in the north of Argentina, why not check out Cafayate. Cafayate is the wine producing region of the north and perfect for wine lovers looking to tour vineyards and go on tastings.

 

For everything you need to know about Cafayate, head to the post below:

 

 

Steak in Argentina

7. Explore The Town, Music Venues And Bars

Having a wander of Plaza Alvarez Prado is the early evening is a great way to spend a couple of hours.

 

There will be artisan stalls selling indigenous crafts and wears, and street musicians giving live performances.

 

After a wander, head to one of the bars sit outside to people watch on the square. Then once the sun goes down, you can go inside or to one of the many other bars to enjoy some live music. The Argentinians like to start their nights out late, so you’ve been warned, you may up be up all night.

 

Arumi is a great place to check out for live music.

8. Wine Tasting At Bodega Fernanda Dupont

If you are after more wine, then a visit to a vineyard is a must. Bodega Fernanda Dupont is a short drive outside of Tilcara.

 

The Winery is open for guided tours from Monday to Saturday between 9 AM to 6 PM. They ask that you call ahead in summer to check the river’s status as it can sometimes flood, stopping cars getting there.

 

 

Vineyards in northern Argentina

9. Take A Day Trip To Salinas Grandes

Salinas Grandes in Argentina is the third largest salt flat in the world.

 

It’s closest to the town of Purmamarca but you can visit from Tilcara too if you want.

 

I always recommend hiring a car for exploring the north west of Argentina. You don’t have to worry about boking tours and you can visit all these amazing places yourself. 

 

It’s completely open to the public and there’s no entrance fee so you can drive there, take some fun perspective shots and marvel at this natural wonder before returning to Tilcara or heading on to Purmamarca.

TOP TIP:  Whilst there aren’t many tours advertised online, speak to the staff at your accommodation. They will likely run some basic tours to Humahuaca, Purmamarca and Salinas Grandes.

10. Go Mountain Biking In Quebdrada De Humahuaca

The beauty of this region is so unique.

 

Many of the landscapes of the Quebrada de Humahuaca speak for themselves, and you can enjoy them in many ways.

 

But if you want to inject some action into your trip, riding through the mountains on a bicycle is a great option!

 

This tour has fantastic reviews:

Salinas Grandes, North Argentina

Did you know Argentina has its very own Salt Flat and Rainbow Mountain. These are two of the best sights in the country, hidden away in the north and well worth a visit. Check out these posts for more:

Sam & Amy at Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

“Joe turned our fragmented ideas into a seamless itinerary. His expert advice saved us time, money, and stress – making our time in Argentina unforgettable”

Sam & Amy – 1 Month In Argentina

Planning a trip to Argentina?

Are you struggling with any of this?

✔ Unsure how to pick the best route
✔ Spent hours researching… and still feeling lost
✔ Want freedom, not a rigid tour
✔ Don’t want to spend $5,000+ on a travel agent

You don’t have to figure it out solo!

I help travellers like you plan custom Argentina trips that are efficient, affordable, and totally personalised.

Do You Need A Car For Tilcara?

Route 9 is an incredibly scenic road that’s perfect for extended road trips via car or bike.

 

I highly recommend renting a car to visit Tilcara and the other towns along this route.

 

However, you’ll need to pick up a car in one of the bigger cities like Jujuy or Salta as there aren’t any rental agencies in Humahuaca.

 

The short distances between the towns of Humahuaca, Tilcara and Purmamarca, including all the incredible landscapes and scenery in the region, means having a car is a fantastic way to explore this part of Argentina.

To see how Tilcara and Route 9 fit into a wider north Argentina itinerary, check out one of the posts below:

 

 

cactus in Tilcara, North Argentina

How Many Days Do You Need In Tilcara?

Two days is the perfect amount of time to spend in Tilcara.

 

The town is small and can easily be seen in the morning. The best thing to do in Tilcara is just take it easy, take in the laid-back vibe of the place and enjoy some local wines and cuisine.

Tilcara 2-Day Itinerary

Day 1

  • Wander the town
  • Lunch at Mercado Municipal de Tilcara
  • Dinner at El Nuevo Progesso
  • Live music at La Pena de Carlitos

Day 2

  • Jardin Botanica de Altura
  • Purcara de Tilcara Ruins / Archeological Musuem
  • El Garganta Del Diablos Trek

Exploring off the beaten track in the northwest is one of 10 great reasons why I think you should visit Argentina. For the other 9, head to the post below:

 

 

small store hut, Tilcara, North Argentina

The Best Places To Eat In Tilcara

I only spent two days in town so didn’t get a chance to try all these fantastic places, but here’s what I came across from research and recommendations from our hostel:

 

  • Khuska
  • La Picadita
  • El Nuevo Progreso
  • La Pena de Carlitos
  • Arumi
  • Los Puestos Restaurante

Are you struggling to work out how many days you need in Argentina overall? Head to the post below to see a selection of itineraries that can help you:

 

 

How To Get To Tilcara

Route 9 is one long road that runs from the north down to the city of Salta.

 

Navigating this part of the country is super easy and laidback, just hopping on cheap, local buses whenever you want to move to the next town.

 

Tilcara’s bus station can be found on the corner of Av. Belgrano and Av. Exodo. Ask your hostel for directions if you can’t find it on google maps.

How To Get To Tilcara From Humahuaca

Tilcara is only 40 minutes by bus to Humahuaca and the tickets costs a couple of dollars.

 

Buses are relatively frequent between the two towns. The bus station is in the middle of town, next to Plaza San Martin on Av. Belgrado.

 

There are multiple bus companies, so we just picked the one with the next earliest time.

 

When arriving at Tilcara, the bus will drop you off at the YPF garage across the bridge from the town. You will need to talk from there.

How To Get To Tilcara From Salta

Whilst we did this journey in the opposite direction, going south to Salta, it’s relatively simple to navigate. The buses are easy to organise and run frequently. We didn’t book anything online and just turned up on the day at the bus station.

 

If you are coming from Salta to Tilcara, you may have to change buses in Jujuy. The Jujuy bus station is massive, and we found a bus company within minutes to take us.

 

If you want to do some forward planning, then Bus Bud is always helpful.

 

They will have buses from the big cities such as Salta and Jujuy, but you won’t be able to find any of the buses between the small towns on route 9 as these are all local companies.

If you are heading to Salta after seeing the smaller towns of the north-west, then be sure to check out our guide:

 

 

Route 9 from Salta, North Argentina

Where To Stay In Tilcara

  • Hostel Waira – Overlooking the valley of Humahuaca in Tilcara, Hostel Waira offers budget accommodation, just 200 yards from the Plaza Central. Every morning, local and international breakfast is served.

 

Booking / Hostel World / Website 

 

  • Tilcara Mistica Hostel – Only 200 yards from Tilcara’s city centre, Tilcara Mistica Hostel offers rooms with free Wi-Fi. It features a garden with hammocks, a shared kitchen, BBQ facilities and a bar/restaurant attached as well. Free Breakfast with regional ingredients is served daily.

 

Booking / Hostel World / Website

 

  • Tierra Andina Hostel – Tierra Andina Hostel has a bar, shared lounge, garden, and free WiFi. The accommodation features a 24-hour front desk, a shared kitchen and currency exchange for guests. Free continental breakfast included.

 

Booking / Website 

Alpaca in the north west countryside of Argentina

Argentina Itineraries

How many days do you need in Argentina? Whether it’s 7 days, 3 weeks or 1 month, I’ve created pre-made itineraries to suit every schedule and traveler.

Check out these posts to help you plan a hassle-free trip:

“We ended up with a better itinerary than anything a travel agent suggested – and without the expensive price tag!

Maeve & Martin – 3 Weeks In Argentina

Planning a trip to Argentina?

Are you struggling with any of this?

✔ Unsure how to pick the best route
✔ Spent hours researching… and still feeling lost
✔ Want freedom, not a rigid tour
✔ Don’t want to spend $5,000+ on a travel agent

You don’t have to figure it out solo!

I help travellers like you plan custom Argentina trips that are efficient, affordable, and totally personalised.

Argentina FAQ's

Here’s a list of frequently asked questions about Argentina:

Do I Need Travel Insurance For Argentina?

Yes, you 100% need travel insurance when visiting Argentina or anywhere in South America.

You need to protect yourself against any potential medical issues that could occur whilst away.

SafetyWing is my go to company when looking for travel medical insurance. They focus on long-term travelers, digital nomads, and remote workers.

SafetyWing covers medical emergencies, travel delays, and lost baggage, but it’s geared towards those who travel for extended periods or live abroad.

What's The Best SIM card for Argentina?

I don’t recommend buying a physical SIM card for Argentina. It’s much easier to download an e-SIM instead.

An e-SIM is a digital SIM card that can be downloaded to your phone via an app. All you do is download the app, pay for the data and you’ll have data in no time.

My preferred e-SIM company is Airalo 

How Do You Get Around Argentina?

Buses will be the cheapest way of getting around, but due to the large distances needed to travel, many of these will be overnight buses.

For example, a bus from Buenos Aires to Mendoza takes around 15 hours with prices starting at around $50.

Here are some average bus times:

  • Buenos Aires > Iguazu – 17h
  • Buenos Aires > Mendoza – 15h
  • Buenos Aires > Salta 21h
  • Buenos Aires > Bariloche – 22h

Due to the price and time, I always recommend looking at flights first. If you book early enough, you’ll be able to find return flights for roughIy the same price as the bus and save yourself a lot of time.

For shorter journeys (1-6 hours), the bus will be the better option. For example, if you are travelling around the northwest (Salta region), buses are super cheap.

I always use Busbud to check times and find the best prices:

Are Flights Cheap In Argentina?

Flying is one of the easiest ways to travel around Argentina. Return flights can be cheap if booked in advance, and they will save you a lot of time.

Here are some average flight times:

  • Buenos Aires > Iguazu – 1h 50m
  • Buenos Aires > Mendoza – 1h 55m
  • Buenos Aires > Bariloche – 2h 15m
  • Buenos Aires > El Calafate – 3h 20m
  • Buenos Aires > Ushuaia – 3h 30m

I always use Way Away Plus to find the cheapest flights and you get cashback every time you book!

What's The Best Backpack For Argentina?

I would recommend taking between 50-70L for your big backpack and 30-40L for a day pack when travelling Argentina.  

The extra space in your big backpack will be for your hiking boots and other warm weather gear when you aren’t wearing it.  Your day pack will be for your tech such as a laptop and other important items you want to keep safe such as a camera, passport, money etc.

Here are my current backpacks that I use to travel Argentina:

Best Beginner Backpack For Argentina

Osprey are the best brand when it comes to backpacks.

In my opinion, the best beginner backpack  is the Osprey Farpoint 50-70L.

It’s reasonably priced, comfortable and has a good amount of space. It’s perfect for first time backpackers visiting Argentina.

It also comes with a 15L detachable day pack which saves you having to buy a separate one.

If you want a wheeled hybrid, then the Sojourn is a great option. They have three different size options from 60-80L.

Best Daypack For Argentina

My go-to daypack is the North Face Router.

It has a 40-liter capacity, is water-repellent, and can fit laptops up to 17”.

For a 40L backpack with loads of compartments and storage, this is such a great price. 

If you want something cheaper, you will have to go a bit smaller. The North Face Borealis is 30L and has a similar layout.

What Should I Pack For Argentina?

You need to pack warm and cold weather clothes for Argentina.

In the summer (Dec-March), Buenos Aires and the north will reach averages of 30°C (86°F). I was walking around Buenos Aires in a vest, shorts and sandals!

When you travel to Patagonia, it will get colder as you are so far south.  So even if it’s summer, it will still get cold at night. Also, the weather is erratic and it can rain at any moment. 

Therefore, you’ll need warm layers and a windbreaker. You’ll also need hiking boots if you want to complete any of the popular treks. 

Here’s are some of my key clothing items to recently took to Argentina:

Warm Midlayer Fleece

This is an essential piece of kit for hiking but also for keeping you warm in the evenings.

Invest wisely in one of these as the more efficient it is, the warmer you will be.

I go with R1 Zip-Neck from Patagonia.

Men | Women

Top tip: this is last seasons item now so you should be able to pick this up cheaper in the sales at places like REI

Waterproof Windbreaker

A waterproof is essential when trekking in the Andes to deal with the biting winds and rapidly changing weather. 

I like to use the Patagonia TorrentShell 3L. 

Its lightweight, warm and packable. The jacket self-stuffs into one of the handwarmer pockets with carabiner clip-in loop.

Mens | Women

Waterproof Hiking Boots

Hiking boots are a must if you want to do any trekking in Argentina. 

 

And fully waterproof and ankle high are essential for trekking in the Andes.

I wore a pair of these hiking some of the best trails in the world in Patagonia and they didn’t let me down!

I went into my local Mountain Warehouse and picked up a pair of these and they haven’t let me down since. 

Men | Women

TOP TIP: I don’t recommend buying boots online. You should go into a store to try them on. And always go a size higher as your feet swell up when walking!

Best Hiking Boots For South America: Mountain Warehouse Hiking Boots

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Joe Bayfield - founder of 'Shall We Go Home?' - South America Trip Planning Services

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